uganda

Best. Matatu. Ever.

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If you've ever been to Uganda, chances are you're going to love this:

From Wikipedia:

Matatus are a mode of transport that fall between private transport and conventional bus transport, often with a fixed or semi-fixed route, but with the added convenience of stopping anywhere to pick or drop passengers and not having fixed time schedules. They are generally minibuses, and are the main system of public transport in many developing countries.

They often are privately owned and have an anarchic operating style, lacking central control or organisation.
In many countries they create problems that are due to the ways in which they are driven and the conditions of their almost always old, polluting and often dangerous vehicles. Indeed in many places such services are illegal or banned.

Yes. This is how we get around Kampala.

Photo of the Old Taxi Park, with real Matatus.

More trivia:

- Over 60% of South Africa's commuters use shared minibus taxis (16 seater commuter buses). These vehicles are mostly unsafe and not roadworthy, and often dangerously overloaded. Minibus taxi drivers are well known for their disregard of traffic rules.

Rafting the Nile River

16 Nov 2008

I smashed into the rocks, terrified, gasping for air. "Keep your feet up, Muzungu," yelled the instructor as I floated further and further from the boat. We were rafting the Nile, and I had my first taste of the Nile on a set of rapids called Silverback.

A day earlier, Kevin, Tyler, Monty, Laura, Gabby, Mark, Anne-Marie and I decided it was time to go rafting in Jinja, where we would travel 30 Km of the Nile, passing through 14 sets of rapids. We took the shuttle to Jinja after lunch in Kabalagala. Dark clouds overtook the skies as we arrived. We offloaded near a gas station, and took a few motorcycle taxis to the campsite in Bujagali Falls. Before we could arrive, we were hit by heavy rains. Our boda-boda pulled over, finding us refuge outside a small home along the road. The family of 7 (or was it 8?) beckoned us to sit down, and found us the only stools in the house. It was pitch black, and no more than a metre away, 5 children were busy keeping eachother company in the dark.

I remember seeing a boy, no older than 2, leaning against the wall. He was falling asleep, and each time it looked like he was nodding off, he would tip over a bit before catching himself. His brothers and sisters worked together to lay him down, and cover him. He fell asleep, between a blanket and the cement floor. The others soon joined, sharing the blanket.

As the rain let up, we thanked the family for their generosity and joined the others at the dorm.

The campsite has a beautiful view of the Nile, which I won't bother making any attempt to describe.

The next morning we made our way back to Jinja for breakfast and suited up for the ride. Once we arrived, Juma took us through a series of small rapids (grade 2,3), helping us get coordinated. After about 5 kilometres, we began to hit bigger ones (grade 4, 5). After most big rapids, we'd all take a break jump out for a swim. What a way to spend the day.

I got banged up pretty well on 'Silverback', and the rest of the group was shaken up by another rapid called 'Chop Suey'. For lunch we sliced up some fresh pineapple and passed around biscuits. We continued on, eager for another taste of the Nile, but by the end we were all pretty exhausted and eager to make our way to the barbeque.

The next morning I had this to look at while I showered:

And later that day we watched Bujagali Falls from a different, safer angle. Incredible experience.

Locals celebrate outcome of US election

Published in

Nov 8

Kampala locals discuss the results after a few hours of playing in the mud.

Electing Barack Obama

5 Nov 2008

The sun had already risen in most of Africa by the time McCain delivered his concession speech. Obama, the Democratic nominee and candidate of choice in these parts, held onto the his lead throughout the night, taking more than enough battleground states with him.

I had joined a small group of friends earlier that evening at a cozy restaurant in Kampala to watch the election. We sat, huddled around a small TV broadcasting CNN for what would be twelve consecutive hours, interrupted only by cold beers and cokes (replaced slowly by strong Ugandan coffee as the night wore on).

I watched in jubilation, sharing Obama's win with the dozens of young Americans and ex-pats around me. The same group who had lived through 8 years with George W. Bush at the helm. The same group, who just a few hours earlier brought out an enormous cake emblazoned with the stars and stripes to share with the faithful.

And it wasn't long before Africans joined in sharing their victory. Thursday's paper was dedicated entirely to election: 'Obama is US president', 'Kenya declares public holiday', Uganda parliament honours Obama', 'Change has come to America,'… read the headlines.

I leafed through the OP-ED section, expecting to see more of the same, but one article stood out: 'Why Africans should emulate John McCain'. Columnist Tumusime Kabwende recalled McCain's concession speech, making the point that African leaders should adopt the same level of humility and grace in defeat. "They should learn that in politics there's always a winner and a loser," he said, citing the blood spilled over Kenya's presidential elections held last year. "This kind of bravery is lacking in our African society and it is high time our leaders learnt a lesson."

And I know he's right. It remains an incredibly important issue here, and throughout much of the continent. It even came up a few weeks ago as Uganda's big two political parties (NRM, FDC) debated electoral reform in Africa at the Serena. I remember listening to an academic from the audience ask his country's political leaders whether governing parties across the region are truly ready for competitive elections, citing cases in Zimbabwe, Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda.

In Zimbabwe, you lose an election and remain in power, creating powerless posts in government for the MDC leader. In Zimbabwe, more of the same: chaos, inflation, famine, cholera. In America, renewal.

The missing November papers

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Here are some thoughts on what happened in November (incl. latest adventures in Africa):

- Electing Barack Obama (following election coverage from Africa)
- Locals celebrate US election
- Rafting the Nile River
- Visiting Rwanda 15 years after genocide
- At the Mille Collines
- The Belgian memorial
- Rwanda vs. Burkina Faso (Football)

Coming soon...

- Banning cluster bombs worldwide
- Thoughts on coalition government in Canada

Football at the Kabira club

Published in

Above: Brit Joe Powell and Montrealers James Taylor and Anne-Marie.

Overheard in Uganda

"The problem with the opposition is that they even want power."

-FDC Opposition Leader Ogenga Latigo quoting a Ugandan ambassador in Brussels. Latigo and Security Minister Mbabazi took part in a debate sponsored by the American Embassy this morning discussing the challenges posed by elections in Africa.

Rethinking how aid is used

Last week I found myself somewhere on Buganda road, in an old, neglected library just north of Kampala. The Uganda National Public Library doesn’t lend books. But it does have a few dictionaries and reference materials. I pulled out a recent World Bank Publication, “Attacking Africa’s Poverty,” published in 2006, edited by Louise Fox and Robert Liebenthal.

I didn’t care much for the title. The language, a sort of call to arms, is so common in the development community. It asks you to help “fight poverty”, “battle hunger” and “defeat malaria”. But the battle cries have been used and abused, leaving those familiar with the lingo with empty and meaningless clichés.

I read on. The preface alone would have been enough to hook me and the essays were even better. Insightful, realistic and frank. I get the impression that the World Bank has been gifted with many people who are able to see the big picture, a perspective that quickly vanishes in these parts if you aren’t careful.

In the first chapter, they touched on a phenomenon I’ve been witnessing lately, speaking of harms that can be associated with aid and the lost decade of development:

“A good deal of the blame rests with donors countries. No region in the world is more dependent on aid, and in no other region do donors have as much say over how their aid is used. This has created the problem of donor-driven aid, in which “African governments eager to obtain as much aid as possible… have frequently ceded much of the responsibility for identifying, designing and implementing aid-funded activities to the donors, which have for the most part gladly seized the initiative”.

I found myself nodding enthusiastically, copying the passage word-for-word into my notebook, something I would be hesitant to do just a few months ago as a young idealist at McGill University.

If the book had been mine, the margins here would have been littered with the letters ‘NB’:

The interaction of aid with local institutional development has largely been overlooked. As a result, donors have used aid to displace local institutions which were very weak anyway, and therefore easy to displace rather than build them.”

“Yes!” I thought, “This is precisely the problem.”

I paused, scanning through the footnotes. They had been quoting NYU Economist and renowned development pessimist William Easterly. I blinked. Here I was, a bleeding-heart, pro-aid Liberal, just eating this stuff up.

I haven’t yet, nor do I see myself making the switch. Jeffrey Sachs’ recent book ‘Common Wealth’ still sits proudly on my bookshelf. But I do have to give credit to Easterly. Yes, aid should be substantially increased. The developed north should follow through on their pledge to donate 0.7% of their GDP to the global south. But the way in which that aid is used to be thoroughly examined and rethought.

I looked up at President Museveni’s portrait, hanging high on the library wall. He stared back, in agreement I thought.

We absolutely cannot displace local institutions through the distribution of aid and NGO programming. Ideally, LDC governments shouldn’t cede responsibilities to NGOs. But with so few donors willing to support governments, they’re in a difficult fix. I think that donors should resume supporting developing governments, helping build and support an effective civil service.

African Football at Mandela Stadium

It was an incredible match, with the Uganda national team prevailing over visiting Benin 2-1. Benin knocked in a goal late in the first half, while Uganda score the equalizer early in the second. A few minutes later, the Ugandan squad took the lead, which they narrowly managed to hold on to throughout stoppage time.

After the match, thousands of locals lined the busy streets celebrating the victory, cheering on fans as they left the Mandela stadium. The win was short-lived, however, as Angola's win over Niger later that evening spelled elimination for the Cranes. "We shouldn't have to rely on so much math in Ugandan football," pined a disappointed Geoffrey Muhumuza.

Benin, on the other hand, will continue to next round of the 2010 qualifier. Read more from the local daily: Uganda Cranes falls short...again (The New Vision, Kampala)

A day at Entebbe beach


Looking through the castle's tunnel


Tim decorates our elephant sculpture


Merry Xmas and Happy New Eap.


The final product

All this while celebrating Ugandan independence on October 9th.

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