Matt Campbell's blog

Best. Matatu. Ever.

Published in

If you've ever been to Uganda, chances are you're going to love this:

From Wikipedia:

Matatus are a mode of transport that fall between private transport and conventional bus transport, often with a fixed or semi-fixed route, but with the added convenience of stopping anywhere to pick or drop passengers and not having fixed time schedules. They are generally minibuses, and are the main system of public transport in many developing countries.

They often are privately owned and have an anarchic operating style, lacking central control or organisation.
In many countries they create problems that are due to the ways in which they are driven and the conditions of their almost always old, polluting and often dangerous vehicles. Indeed in many places such services are illegal or banned.

Yes. This is how we get around Kampala.

Photo of the Old Taxi Park, with real Matatus.

More trivia:

- Over 60% of South Africa's commuters use shared minibus taxis (16 seater commuter buses). These vehicles are mostly unsafe and not roadworthy, and often dangerously overloaded. Minibus taxi drivers are well known for their disregard of traffic rules.

Belgian Memorial in Kigali

Flowers laid out in remembrance of the 10 Belgian soldiers massacred during the Rwandan genocide.

Families of the victims visited the site in 2003, leaving messages on the chalkboard. Note the names "Dallaire", UNAMIR Force Commander, and "Marchal", UNAMIR Kigali sector commander next to the skull. Belgians have taken a hatred to Dallaire in particular in the aftermath of the genocide, blaming him for the death of Belgian soldiers.

Ignatieff assumes party leadership

It's been an unprecedented few weeks in Canadian politics, stretching the imaginations of even the boldest political scientists. First, the prime minister sought to cut public financing for political parties, posing a considerable threat to competitive elections in the country. Then he moved to ban civil servants from striking for the next three years.

Having completely lost confidence in the government, the opposition parties penned an agreement to defeat the ruling Conservatives and form an alternative coalition government (Liberal-NDP, with support of the Bloc Québecois).

Facing defeat, Harper suspended parliament early (another first). Not even a single vote had been cast in Canada's 40th parliament. Wounded, the prime minister is now poised to make 18 appointments to the Senate before he can be ousted.

And just a few days ago the Liberal Party of Canada took measures to appoint an interim leader. They chose Michael Ignatieff, who enjoyed broad caucus and party support across the country.

I supported Ignatieff's bid in 2006, helping launch his national youth campaign. And I supported him this time around too, because (in short) I believe he will be good for Canada.

Now let's see how far politics can go for us.

--

Above, a photo taken of Dallaire and Ignatieff the night we launched Michael's youth campaign in Montreal.

Senator Roméo Dallaire, the famed former UN troop commander, [about to take] the stage to introduce [Ignatieff]. “I’m not just here as a friend and buddy,” he says, “but because he is the only person who can articulate a vision of Canada, who can move the yardstick of humanity, who can move the country well beyond the borders in which we find ourselves.”

Read more: Globe and Mail: Ignatieff and Harper: the Nobleman versus the Doberman

Photo: Radey Barrack, 2006.

Rafting the Nile River

16 Nov 2008

I smashed into the rocks, terrified, gasping for air. "Keep your feet up, Muzungu," yelled the instructor as I floated further and further from the boat. We were rafting the Nile, and I had my first taste of the Nile on a set of rapids called Silverback.

A day earlier, Kevin, Tyler, Monty, Laura, Gabby, Mark, Anne-Marie and I decided it was time to go rafting in Jinja, where we would travel 30 Km of the Nile, passing through 14 sets of rapids. We took the shuttle to Jinja after lunch in Kabalagala. Dark clouds overtook the skies as we arrived. We offloaded near a gas station, and took a few motorcycle taxis to the campsite in Bujagali Falls. Before we could arrive, we were hit by heavy rains. Our boda-boda pulled over, finding us refuge outside a small home along the road. The family of 7 (or was it 8?) beckoned us to sit down, and found us the only stools in the house. It was pitch black, and no more than a metre away, 5 children were busy keeping eachother company in the dark.

I remember seeing a boy, no older than 2, leaning against the wall. He was falling asleep, and each time it looked like he was nodding off, he would tip over a bit before catching himself. His brothers and sisters worked together to lay him down, and cover him. He fell asleep, between a blanket and the cement floor. The others soon joined, sharing the blanket.

As the rain let up, we thanked the family for their generosity and joined the others at the dorm.

The campsite has a beautiful view of the Nile, which I won't bother making any attempt to describe.

The next morning we made our way back to Jinja for breakfast and suited up for the ride. Once we arrived, Juma took us through a series of small rapids (grade 2,3), helping us get coordinated. After about 5 kilometres, we began to hit bigger ones (grade 4, 5). After most big rapids, we'd all take a break jump out for a swim. What a way to spend the day.

I got banged up pretty well on 'Silverback', and the rest of the group was shaken up by another rapid called 'Chop Suey'. For lunch we sliced up some fresh pineapple and passed around biscuits. We continued on, eager for another taste of the Nile, but by the end we were all pretty exhausted and eager to make our way to the barbeque.

The next morning I had this to look at while I showered:

And later that day we watched Bujagali Falls from a different, safer angle. Incredible experience.

Locals celebrate outcome of US election

Published in

Nov 8

Kampala locals discuss the results after a few hours of playing in the mud.

Electing Barack Obama

5 Nov 2008

The sun had already risen in most of Africa by the time McCain delivered his concession speech. Obama, the Democratic nominee and candidate of choice in these parts, held onto the his lead throughout the night, taking more than enough battleground states with him.

I had joined a small group of friends earlier that evening at a cozy restaurant in Kampala to watch the election. We sat, huddled around a small TV broadcasting CNN for what would be twelve consecutive hours, interrupted only by cold beers and cokes (replaced slowly by strong Ugandan coffee as the night wore on).

I watched in jubilation, sharing Obama's win with the dozens of young Americans and ex-pats around me. The same group who had lived through 8 years with George W. Bush at the helm. The same group, who just a few hours earlier brought out an enormous cake emblazoned with the stars and stripes to share with the faithful.

And it wasn't long before Africans joined in sharing their victory. Thursday's paper was dedicated entirely to election: 'Obama is US president', 'Kenya declares public holiday', Uganda parliament honours Obama', 'Change has come to America,'… read the headlines.

I leafed through the OP-ED section, expecting to see more of the same, but one article stood out: 'Why Africans should emulate John McCain'. Columnist Tumusime Kabwende recalled McCain's concession speech, making the point that African leaders should adopt the same level of humility and grace in defeat. "They should learn that in politics there's always a winner and a loser," he said, citing the blood spilled over Kenya's presidential elections held last year. "This kind of bravery is lacking in our African society and it is high time our leaders learnt a lesson."

And I know he's right. It remains an incredibly important issue here, and throughout much of the continent. It even came up a few weeks ago as Uganda's big two political parties (NRM, FDC) debated electoral reform in Africa at the Serena. I remember listening to an academic from the audience ask his country's political leaders whether governing parties across the region are truly ready for competitive elections, citing cases in Zimbabwe, Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda.

In Zimbabwe, you lose an election and remain in power, creating powerless posts in government for the MDC leader. In Zimbabwe, more of the same: chaos, inflation, famine, cholera. In America, renewal.

The missing November papers

Published in

Here are some thoughts on what happened in November (incl. latest adventures in Africa):

- Electing Barack Obama (following election coverage from Africa)
- Locals celebrate US election
- Rafting the Nile River
- Visiting Rwanda 15 years after genocide
- At the Mille Collines
- The Belgian memorial
- Rwanda vs. Burkina Faso (Football)

Coming soon...

- Banning cluster bombs worldwide
- Thoughts on coalition government in Canada

Football at the Kabira club

Published in

Above: Brit Joe Powell and Montrealers James Taylor and Anne-Marie.

Overheard in Uganda

"The problem with the opposition is that they even want power."

-FDC Opposition Leader Ogenga Latigo quoting a Ugandan ambassador in Brussels. Latigo and Security Minister Mbabazi took part in a debate sponsored by the American Embassy this morning discussing the challenges posed by elections in Africa.

African Football at Mandela Stadium

It was an incredible match, with the Uganda national team prevailing over visiting Benin 2-1. Benin knocked in a goal late in the first half, while Uganda score the equalizer early in the second. A few minutes later, the Ugandan squad took the lead, which they narrowly managed to hold on to throughout stoppage time.

After the match, thousands of locals lined the busy streets celebrating the victory, cheering on fans as they left the Mandela stadium. The win was short-lived, however, as Angola's win over Niger later that evening spelled elimination for the Cranes. "We shouldn't have to rely on so much math in Ugandan football," pined a disappointed Geoffrey Muhumuza.

Benin, on the other hand, will continue to next round of the 2010 qualifier. Read more from the local daily: Uganda Cranes falls short...again (The New Vision, Kampala)

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